For the past ten years,
when I’ve been able, I’ve made a point of going to the U.N
Cemetery in Busan on the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month, the
exact time and date that hostilities ended in World War 1. For
Britains, Canadians other commonwealth nations and notable nations
such as France this day has come to be known as Remembrance Day when
those countries remember those that have sacrificed their lives. Not
only in the first Great War, but in all conflicts since. The day has
become synonymous with the red poppy of remembrance inspired by the
poem “In Flanders Fields”.
The first time I went
to the U.N cemetery I had expected there to be some sort of service
or ceremony, but to my surprise there was no one there. In hindsight
this wasn’t totally surprising. November 11th isn’t
commemorated in all countries like it is in the U.K and Canada.
Although America does have Veterans Day on November 11th
there main day is Memorial Day. Koreans Memorial Day is in June and
of course the Australians and Kiwis commemorate ANZAC Day.
So each year I would
find myself alone in the cemetery and would find a gravestone of some
soldier, any soldier and pay my own private, silent tribute to him
and those that had given their lives. Not only those in the two great
wars that my Grandfathers and their fathers before them served in.
But also those that gave their lives in the Korean war. A war that
sixty years ago decimated this country that I’ve come to call home,
but has seen a quite miraculous transformation from the ashes to rise
to the economic powerhouse it is today.
Then about five years
ago I noticed a small, but noticeable group of foreigners and Koreans
holding some sort of service near the newly built “Wall of
Remembrance”. A group of Canadian veterans had decided it right
that this day should be remembered. The following year the group was
much larger and with the noticeable presence of some Korean veterans.
Every year it grew until the organization of the event came under the
wing of The Ministry of Patriots and Veterans Affairs and the local
Busan and Nam Gu governments. Last year and this the ceremony became
quite a big affair. Government ministers rub shoulders with veterans
from Korea, Britain, Australia, The U.S, New Zealand, Canada and
Turkey to name just a few. A military band plays sober music in the
background and tributes are read and speeches given.
Sometimes I wish again
for the days of my own private act of remembrance, alone in the
cemetery. The ‘2 minute silence’ isn’t silent at all since the
band plays over the top. The 11th hour isn’t observed
either. Maybe it’s significance isn’t realized here. But at least
they are remembering. For that I am thankful.
As I walked away from
this years ceremony, I made a point, as I always do, to walk around
some of the gravestones. To read the names of the men who died. This
year one gravestone stood out. It was surrounded by Irish flags and a
basket of flowers with two rosettes perched on top saying “Proud
to be Irish!”. The grave belonged to a Private Keating, a gunner in
the Royal Artillery. He had died here in Korea in June 1953, aged
just 24. A gray haired gentleman came up to me and said, “That’s
mine. That’s my father. I don’t think he or any of them knew what
they were coming to. So young, so young”.
Lest we forget.
Addendum: I rushed this piece out for one of the local magazines here in Busan so it wasn't subject to the usual meticulous scrutiny I normally afford my writing. The editor of the magazine did quite a bit of editing on it and I appreciate his input. Actually, I prefer what he did!
Here is the edited version if you wish to read it.
Busan Haps - Lest We Forget
